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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico radicado en la Ciudad de México.

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Taco Time: Mole Verde @ Taquería El Jarocho

Taco Time: Mole Verde @ Taquería El Jarocho

 photo courtesy Taqueria el Jarocho

photo courtesy Taqueria el Jarocho

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The verb “guisar” means “to prepare food” implying more elaboration than the literal “cocinar”. Guisados are stews i.e. meats or vegetables in sauce. They can consist of anything at all, from chicharrón (pork skin) to eggs, to picadillo to pure vegetables. Any prepared or stewed dish heaped onto a taco is a ‘guisado’. While guisados venues traditionally offer their wares from clay cazuelas, modern stainless steel is becoming more common. In business since 1948, El Jarocho restaurant offers a large range of classic tacos de guisados such as carne de cerdo en salsa verde con verdolagas, pollo pibil, and the poblano version of mole verde, thickened with pumpkin seeds, my favorite. While seemingly expensive at 41 pesos each, the tacos are large and come with two tortillas so it’s really a 2-for-1 deal.

Manzanillo 49 (corner of Tapachula, behind the Sears, 1 block from Insurgentes), tel: 5574-7148, open Monday-Saturday 8 a.m.-10 p.m. Sunday 8 a.m.-7 p.m. See map 

 tacos de guisados @ El Jarocho

tacos de guisados @ El Jarocho

Last Stop: Terminal Juárez

Last Stop: Terminal Juárez

From Israel with Love: Guli Hagadol in Polanco

From Israel with Love: Guli Hagadol in Polanco