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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico radicado en la Ciudad de México.

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Dim Sum Heaven @ Fulihua

Dim Sum Heaven @ Fulihua

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I couldn’t believe my eyes when I walked into the recently discovered and oddly named Fulihua. It’s an ENORMOUS, three-story Chinese restaurant set in the middle of what has become our “real” Chinatown, the nondescript colonia Viaducto Piedad. That memorable Sunday morning, we, four “lao wei” ( not polite in Chinese for “non-Chinese”) and several Asian friends, were privy to be amongst the hundreds of Chinese customers who were busy availing themselves of an array of very well prepared dim sum, the largest selection I’ve seen in Mexico. I thought I had landed in Hong Kong or, at least, Flushing, Queens.

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I adore har gao, shrimp enveloped in a translucent wrapper, and I use them as the litmus test for a good dim sum place. The ones here pass muster. Sticky rice balls rolled in sesame seeds and filled with red cooked pork are nice. And the under-appreciated turnip cakes that look like lard but aren’t are worth seeking out. After chowing down on dozens of little plates, I didn’t have room for a duck which hangs temptingly along with char shiu in a vitrine. The dim sum party’s over at noon, but the regular Cantonese-oriented menu lives on until nightfall and is also worth a visit. Don’t expect good service (rice bowls and tea need to be requested more than once and are not served with the food) or help from the Mexican waiters who cannot explain the menu; Chinese staff speak little Spanish.

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Fulihua
c/ José Ma. Correa 304, colonia Viaducto Piedad (not far from Metro Viaducto) see map
Dim sum Saturday/Sunday 9 a.m. - 12 p.m., restaurant open until 10 p.m. daily.

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