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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico radicado en la Ciudad de México.

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Dim Sum Heaven @ Fulihua; Terminal Juárez

Dim Sum Heaven @ Fulihua; Terminal Juárez

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I couldn’t believe my eyes when I walked into the recently discovered and oddly named Fulihua. It’s an ENORMOUS, three-story Chinese restaurant set in the middle of what has become our “real” Chinatown, the nondescript colonia Viaducto Piedad. That memorable Sunday morning, we, four “lao wei” ( not nice in Chinese for “non-Chinese”) and several Asian friends, were privy to be amongst the hundreds of Chinese customers who were busy availing themselves to an array of very well prepared dim sum, the largest selection I’ve seen in Mexico. I thought I had landed in Hong Kong or, at least, Flushing, Queens.

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I adore har gao, shrimp enveloped in a translucent wrapper, and I use them as the litmus test for a good dim sum place. The ones here pass muster. Sticky rice balls rolled in sesame seeds and filled with red cooked pork are nice. And the under-appreciated turnip cakes that look like lard but aren’t are worth seeking out. After chowing down on dozens of little plates, I didn’t have room for a duck which hangs temptingly along with char shiu. The dim sum party’s over at noon, but the regular Cantonese-oriented menu lives on until nightfall.

Fulihua
c/ José Ma. Correa 304, colonia Viaducto Piedad (not far from Metro Viaducto) see map
Dim sum Saturday/Sunday 9 a.m. - 12 p.m., restaurant open until 10 p.m. daily.


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Hot Mamma's Hot Chicken
The great news is that Mexico City finally has a great, authentic southern fried chicken joint; that's more than I can say for The Big Apple, my home town. Hot Mamma's Hot Chicken, located in the newest gourmet food court, Terminal Juárez, serves up Nashville-style chicken in 3 different levels of hotness.

Chicken is crusty without and steamingly succulent within. There are also sandwiches, chicken & waffles and pulled pork sliders. Not to mention sides such as cole slaw and mac & cheese. All recipes have been meticulously curated by Nashville native Gina Hendrix, who also happens to be a wine expert.

 samosas & pakoras

samosas & pakoras

From India to Japan
Neighbors with Hot Mamma, Kebab is an Indian/Bangladeshi stand, just opened last week, that offers a large menú of well prepared and reasonably priced multi-"hindú" specialties. I was very pleased with my "Bhaji" - samosas and pakoras, as well as a fragrant saag-paneer. The quality of the food compares well with much higher priced options in the city.

Meanwhile downstairs, the affable Ken, of Japanese descent, does a great ramen at Shibui; it's the best in the area and that's saying something in a city becoming saturated with good ramen. And sometimes his mother hangs out to make sure things are in order, Tampopo-style.

 Shibui ramen

Shibui ramen



Hot Mamma's Hot Chicken, Kebab and Shibui Ramen
 Términal Juárez Pop up Hall
Versalles 88 (inside the parking lot), Colonia Juarez. (see map)
Open daily 1-8 p.m. 

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