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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico radicado en la Ciudad de México.

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Taco Time: La Casa de los Lechoncitos al Horno

Taco Time: La Casa de los Lechoncitos al Horno

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La Casa de los Lechoncitos al Horno is unique in the capital.  It should be a destination for those who worship at the Church of Pork. Don Armando López (on location since 1965) and his sons rub the little piggies (lechón is a suckling pig) with a light adobo and bake until falling apart tender. The meat is pulled and heaped onto thin tortillas, which can be augmented with a squeeze of lime and a fresh red or green salsa. It’s similar to carnitas but the flavor is purer, lighter and less oily. I am partial to the ‘campechano’ on which chicharrón as light as a porcine cloud is crumbled. Ambience is the kind of 'for real' retro that the post-modern Taqueria Orinoco is going after, that is, unchanged since the '50's.  Pollos and chamorro (shank) are also on offer, but it’s baby pork I’m after. Tacos  - or tortas if you are so inclined - should be accompanied by a bowl of soupy frijoles de la olla con carne and a fruity Boing in a bottle.  Whole lechones can be ordered for your carnivorous fiesta.

La Casa de los Lechoncitos al Horno
Pedro Romero de Terreros 1153-A, Colonia Narvarte
Tel: 5639 4192
Open 10:30 a.m. – 6 p.m. Wednesday – Monday (closed Tuesday)
See map

 Don Armando López, on location since 1965

Don Armando López, on location since 1965

Le Chique Honors Mexico

Le Chique Honors Mexico

El Mercadito Peruano Does Ceviche Right

El Mercadito Peruano Does Ceviche Right