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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico basado en la Ciudad de México.

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Taco Time: La Casa de los Lechoncitos al Horno

Taco Time: La Casa de los Lechoncitos al Horno

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La Casa de los Lechoncitos al Horno is unique in the capital.  It should be a destination for those who worship at the Church of Pork. Don Armando López (on location since 1965) and his sons rub the little piggies (lechón is a suckling pig) with a light adobo and bake until falling apart tender. The meat is pulled and heaped onto thin tortillas, which can be augmented with a squeeze of lime and a fresh red or green salsa. It’s similar to carnitas but the flavor is purer, lighter and less oily. I am partial to the ‘campechano’ on which chicharrón as light as a porcine cloud is crumbled. Ambience is the kind of 'for real' retro that the post-modern Taqueria Orinoco is going after, that is, unchanged since the '50's.  Pollos and chamorro (shank) are also on offer, but it’s baby pork I’m after. Tacos  - or tortas if you are so inclined - should be accompanied by a bowl of soupy frijoles de la olla con carne and a fruity Boing in a bottle.  Whole lechones can be ordered for your carnivorous fiesta.

La Casa de los Lechoncitos al Horno
Pedro Romero de Terreros 1153-A, Colonia Narvarte
Tel: 5639 4192
Open 10:30 a.m. – 6 p.m. Wednesday – Monday (closed Tuesday)
See map

 Don Armando López, on location since 1965

Don Armando López, on location since 1965

Le Chique Honors Mexico

Le Chique Honors Mexico

Poblanerías; Terraza Cha Cha Chá; Mamma's Fried Chicken, Ramen & Indian Food in Terminal Juárez

Poblanerías; Terraza Cha Cha Chá; Mamma's Fried Chicken, Ramen & Indian Food in Terminal Juárez