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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico basado en la Ciudad de México.

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C'est Si Bon: What's French in CDMX

C'est Si Bon: What's French in CDMX

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Though France has been the culinary direction the Mexican upper class has looked towards since the 19th century, there have never been very good French restaurants here in the supposed "Paris of the New World". There are still only a few;  La Maison de Famille and Au Pie de Couchon  come to mind. And now there are  Café Milou and Havre 77.

J'AI DEUX AMOURS: CAFÉ MILOU
Café Milou is the smallest, least unpretentious of our old world restos to have opened recently. It emulates casual Parisian bistro dining and does it very well. Milou's popularity, spread by word of mouth, has reached the point where reservations are now essential. Classics such as steak tartare, terrine de campagne and leeks in cream are done with finesse. Heartier main dishes might be joues de boeuf—beef cheeks in a reduced wine sauce or lubina with potatoes au gratin. A short wine list is well chosen. Marble tables spill out onto the street and ambience is jovial. Breakfast is offered and is trés Parisienne. Bon appétit!

Av. Veracruz 38, Condesa; See  Map
tel. 55 7098-1422
Open Monday – Saturday 8 a.m. – 11 p.m., Sunday 10 a.m. – 6 p.m.
Average pp: $500

HAVRE 77 : CLASSIC FRENCH FROM LALO
Havre is chef Eduardo ‘Lalo’ García’s venue for classic French cuisine. After his lengthy stint at NY's Michelin starred Le Bernardin, he knows what he's doing. The setting is a pretty turn of the 20th century house in colonia Juarez in several smallish rooms, a patio and I tiny space downstairs perfect for an affaire de coeur. The menu is comprised of bistro classics such as frissé aux lardon, confit de canard, steak frites and bouillabaisse, all done textbook perfect as only Lalo can do. The elegant raw bar features the best seafood from Baja California and even France itself. A fine selection of French wines, are on the blackboard.

While on the pricey side ($600+), Havre offers a 4 course bar menu during lunch hours – 1-5 p.m. – Tuesday – Friday. At $290 it is a great way to sample the superb fare for those on a budget. C’est magnifique!

Calle Havre 77, Col. Juarez; view map
Tel. 5208 1070
Open Tuesday – Saturday 1 – 11 p.m., Sunday 1 – 5 p.m., closed Monday

TACO TIME: Taco de Berenjena @ Pujol

TACO TIME: Taco de Berenjena @ Pujol

Rediscovering The Yucatan: Mérida Then and Now

Rediscovering The Yucatan: Mérida Then and Now