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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

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Oaxacan Smoke: Pasillo de Humo

Oaxacan Smoke: Pasillo de Humo

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Pasillo de Humo is a fine, casual spot located upstairs at the recently inaugurated Mercado Parian in the heart of Condesa. It is an extraordinary Oaxacan ‘antojería’ under the baton of chef Alam Méndez who happens to be the son of Celía Florian, chef/owner of Oaxaca’s renowned 15 Letras. The "pasillo" refers to the smoky passage in that city’s market where tasajo--dried beef-- is grilled over wood-fueled coals; here, smoke from the grill dissipates in sunny the high-ceilinged space, designed by Paul Curuchet and Luciana de la Garza of Estudio Atemporal. The restaurant, which opens for breakfast as well as comida and cena, offers classic regional specialties such as crispy flat tlayudas, tamales, intriguing egg dishes served in polished clay cazuelas and of course, moles. I love the earthy verdant mole verde, aromatic with minty hoja santa.  The best ingredients are imported from the south, tortillas made by hand. This is a welcome addition to the capital’s under-represented Oaxacan venues.

 Chef Alam Méndez

Chef Alam Méndez

Pasillo de Humo
Mercado Parian, Nuevo León 107, upstairs, Condesa
Open Monday - Wednesday 9 a.m. – 10 p.m., Thursday - Saturday til 11 p.m., Sunday until 7 p.m. Average per person: $300
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