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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

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TACO TIME: Tripa y Chorizo @ Los Cocuyos

TACO TIME: Tripa y Chorizo @ Los Cocuyos

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This now legendary late-night stand-up only spot, located steps from the Zócalo, features every part of the cow you’ve ever heard of and a few you haven’t.  It’s been lauded on TV by one vociferous food maven and for good reason – it’s top in its category. Try a taco of chewy but flavorful suadero – breast  - or melt in your mouth mollejas – sweetbreads. Best of all, however, is the tripe, cooked until buttery tender in fat made smokey by the chorizo that bathes lazily nearby, then “refreshed” on the griddle to give it a crispy edge.

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Los Cocuyos
Bolivar 56, near Uruguay, Centro
Open daily 10 a.m. – 5:40 a.m. (i.e. all night)
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Photos by Juan de Díos

Pinche Gringo BBQ: So Far from God, So Close to the U.S.

Pinche Gringo BBQ: So Far from God, So Close to the U.S.

Animo: ¡Ay, Caldos!

Animo: ¡Ay, Caldos!