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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

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TACO TIME: Taco de Milanesa @ Los Milanesos

TACO TIME: Taco de Milanesa @ Los Milanesos

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There are tacos that are in a category by themselves; they can be unique, creative, even strange, as Duke Ellington once said, “beyond category.” That's where this taco de milanesa resides.

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Tacos El Calvario, its official name, is known to its many fans as “Los Milanesos.” Nothing more than an extended puesto under a tent standing alone in a grassy median, it is perpetually surrounded by its faithful patrons, from students to cops on the beat. Don Antonio Betancur presides over the operation as he has since 1999. Los Milanesos is so-named because of the exquisite and notoriously huge tacos of milanesa - breaded, fried beef, chicken or ham and cheese. Pre-formed patties are deep fried on demand, sliced in even strips and piled on two warm tortillas. Quick frying keeps the meat succulent and free of excess grease; a dollop of rustic salsa verde or roja adds kick. Optional cheese is essential to some, gilding the lily to others.

While milanesa is the house special, several rich saucy guisados are always on hand, served out of huge, battered aluminum pots: options may be pork rib in adobo, chicharrón with nopal or suadero with nopal. Believe me, this place is worth the trip. 

LOS MILANESOS
Avenida Glaciar s/n (across from the Centro Libanés) Colonia Olivar de los Padres
Open Monday – Friday 7 a.m. - 4:30, Saturday until 3:30, Sunday closed.
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TACO TIME: Carnitas @ Azul/El Capote

TACO TIME: Carnitas @ Azul/El Capote

TACO TIME: Taco de Cecina/Longaniza @ Lalo & Ceci

TACO TIME: Taco de Cecina/Longaniza @ Lalo & Ceci