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Nicholas Gilman is a renowned journalist and food writer based in Mexico City.

Nicholas Gilman es un renombrado periodista gastronómico radicado en la Ciudad de México.

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Taco Time: Smoke Gets in Your Eyes at Fábrica de Humo

Taco Time: Smoke Gets in Your Eyes at Fábrica de Humo

The taco of pulpo al pastor

Fábrica de Humo is an unassuming, friendly taqueria located in the heart of the “gastro quarter” of Colonia Juarez, i.e. its east side, offering artfully prepared tacos that live up to their smoky moniker. It opened post-pandemic to little fanfare and is fast catching on with the public both local and imported.

High quality meats, fish and even tofu and vegetables are marinated, wood-smoked at a low temperature and, where appropriate, finished sous-vide then fashioned into subtly flavored open tacos. Tortillas are house-made utilizing heirloom corn masa from the areas surrounding the city. Multi-regional is the theme, Asia is the leitmotif. Pulpo is dressed in a traditional achiote-rich ‘al pastor’ sauce, topped with a sliver of pineapple, that complements the flavor of the smoky octopus – an homage to that Day-Effay classic. Char siu, Chinese roast pork loin, is slathered with a perfumy, lightly sweet hoisin, mirin and five-spice sauce. My favorite, papada de cerdo Szechuan, is a seared chunk of delightfully fatty pork jowl, lightly augmented by Sichuan pepper and sesame oil. On weekends, the menu is expanded to include more fish options – and even, on occasion, pastrami. It should be noted that there are several vegetarian options.

Prices are wallet-friendly, tacos averaging $50.

Fábrica de Humo is a welcome addition to the city’s growing creative taco options.

Fábrica de Humo
Nápoles 57-A, between Marsella & Liverpool, Colonia Juarez (see map)
Telephone 55 1052 5922
Open Tuesday, Wednesday 1 - 8:30 pm, Thursday until 9:30, Friday, Saturday until 10, Sunday 1 -6, closed Monday

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