Comedor Jacinta: Comfort Zone, Mexican Style
Chef Edgar Nuñez is of the new generation of cooks who promote and bring to the table Modern Mexican Cuisine. His cooking is based on classic Mexican traditions but astutely fused with contemporary ideas in general and Spain in particular. After running a successful food truck, he opened his fine dining venue, Sud 777, in 2012 in the gastronomically challenged Pedregal area. Then he was involved in a Neapolitan pizza parlour next door. Now, he is at the helm of Jacinta, a friendly ‘comedor’ in the heart of simplicity-challenged Polanco. The large, open, patio-like space feels casual and congenial
The menu rounds up simple, lightly tweaked Mexican comfort dishes from around the republic. Ceviche de caracol estilo Progreso presents the chewy sea creature in a tart soy tinged sauce. A classic Oaxacan tlayuda is studded with very good aged beef instead of the usual salted tasajo. A chunk of mildly salty queso fresco languishes in a delicious bath of tomato broth perfumed by minty avocado leaves. Mini gorditas are stuffed with meaty cola de res AKA oxtail. Jacinta is a welcome addition to an area densely packed with restaurants but with few true unpretentious Mexican options. Prices are, if not low, certainly competitive given the tony nature of the neighborhood. Comedor Jacinta delivers what it promises: simple Mexican fare without an ounce of pretension.